Clos del Rey Côtes du Roussillon 2010

Bottled this past February, the 2010 Cotes du Roussillon Clos del Rey features both Grenache and Syrah as supplements to its (as usual) dominant Carignan, and it saw one-third new barrels. A lush and sweetly-ripe meld of blackberry, elderberry and black raspberry is shadowed by high-toned distilled fruit aromas for an almost liqueur-like composite impression that is pleasantly complemented by hints of vanilla and carnal from barrel. The root- and mineral- orientations familiar from recent 'Sabina' bottlings are in effect here too, with both earthy richness of beet root and invigorating impingements of sassafras, ginger, licorice and horseradish; peat and crushed stone as well as iodine and salt, the latter serving for saliva-liberation in a whiplash-like, nearly indelible finish that also incorporates fruit pit piquancy and fruit skin tang intriguingly reminiscent of nectarine. This sappy, fine-grained, almost broodingly yet vibrantly complex cuvee is a prime example of wine that can make good use of its new oak component without sacrificing an iota of mineral or herbal nuance let alone primary fruit juiciness. I would expect it to perform magnificently through at least 2028. Incidentally, this dense ball of energy harbors a mere 13.5% alcohol, one and a half degrees less than its 2009 counterpart. Score - 95. (David Schildknecht, erobertparker.com, Jan. 2014)