Godmé Père et fils Grand Cru Extra Brut Champagne

Featuring fruit from Verzenay and neighboring Verzy (hence grand cru-labeled) and vintages 2004-2008, Godme's in large part cask-matured NV Extra Brut Disg. 3/2013 delivers a fascinating nose and mouthwateringly savory mid-palate and finish oriented toward salt and iodine; suggesting crustacean shell reductions; but accompanied by lusciously juicy fresh apple and grapefruit, as well as piquant hazelnut and almond. This doesn't come off as the least bit too dry (at four grams) and its succulence of fruit persists into a long, saliva-inducing finish in which emerges an umami-rich sense of oyster liquor. I would expect wonderful versatility and even enhanced complexity over the next couple of years. Score - 93. (David Schildknecht, erobertparker.com, Nov. 2013)