Aneto Grande Reserve 2009

The 2009 GRANDE RESERVE is a 50/50 blend of Tinta Roriz and Touriga Nacional, aged in new oak (80% French, 20% American) for 18 months. Much deeper and more likely to absorb its oak well in the long run, this big '09 is a notable step up on the 2008 -- which is quite nice in its own right -- and likely to hold well in the cellar. Concentrated in the mid-palate and rather delicious, it sports a serious backbone and some steel underneath, yet it promises harmony as well. It is a very nice performance from Aneto, coupling elegance and intensity, depth and balance. If I had a quibble -- it does well on the sex appeal front, but it lacks a little in complexity. I'll be interested to see if this develops more character and complexity with some age. When the oak starts to integrate a bit better this will show more expressively, so I've leaned up a bit for its potential. All that said, if it never quite achieves that potential -- and I think it will -- it is still completely delicious and sexy. It won't draw many complaints. Drink now-2024. Score - 92. (Mark Squires, erobertparker.com, June 2012)