Kew Vineyards Blanc de Noir 2011

It's surprisingly light for traditional method sparkler (over the last few years it has become fashionable to age wine longer on the lees making them increasingly rich). This one is more farmers' market than bakery, relying on the charms of its perfumed fruit. Take a sip and you're greeted with a seductive combination of: wild strawberry, serviceberry and lemon. The mousse is fine with the tiny creamy bubbles being a great match for its lighter body and elegant acidity. While it won't wow with its complexity, it's an excellent choice when you're in the mood for blanc de noir depth, but the occasion requires a lighter approach. It would be fantastic with salmon sashimi. (Mike Di Caro, spotlighttoronto.com, Sept. 9, 2013)